Tuesday, May 8, 2012

The Happy Pants Parade?

I just read a post on PR by a fellow sewist who finally mastered a pants fitting. Another member noted that she too was on her way to join the happy pants parade. 


Well! I hope there's room for me because, come hell or high water, I'm going to end up with a pants pattern that fits. More on this later...

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

The Old Crotch-depth Blues

I consider it progress that I no longer wince when saying/writing "crotch depth." Taking a break from the quest for a perfectly fitted shirt, I decided to whip up a 1-hour pattern for drawstring capri pants. Found a nice chocolate brown stretch poplin on sale for this project. 

This is a Simplicity pattern, one I've never used before. I chose this style because I have several pair of RTW like it and they are comfortable. Little about my shape has changed since I last made pants about a year ago. So, imagine my surprise when I slipped into the tissue-fit right leg and found the center back waist a good 4 inches from my own waist!

I was perplexed, to say the least. After researching pants modifications online and in my different books, I decided to blaze a new trail. The biggest gap I could find in the research was about 1 inch, so the suggested pattern tweaks didn't seem like they would get the job done.

Here is what the back pattern piece looked like when I finished:
I know it's crazy, but if you look closely, you can see the grainline goes off to the right just above the massive tuck/wedge thingy. Believe it or not, the stitched up pants actually fit! I posted this picture along with requests for comments on the Pattern Review board. Several kind folks referred me to an adjustment that does a slash/spread about where I added the 3". May have to try that one since it would keep the side seam straight. 
So in the next few days, I'll be putting together a muslin of this Silhouettes pattern. With any luck, I'll perfect the remedy for the old crotch-depth blues!