Just for fun: Woody!

Here is a quick video of Woody, our 9-month-old chihuahua, desperately trying to get the "toys" on the bottom of his water dish.
Silly Woody

Bras and Step-Ins

Last month a friend and I took a bra making class that reset my sewing agenda! I was absolutely amazed that I could produce such a great fitting bra. Filled with courage, I decided to attempt a pair of panties. Kwik Sew's Beautiful Lingerie (the book) includes a pattern for a high-cut panty. My (former) favorite underwear was Jockey's cotton hi-cuts. 

According to Kwik Sew's sizing chart, I wear an XL. This is how my Jockey's compared with that first cut out.

Jockey sz 8 / Kwik Sew sz XL

So...the sizing chart got tossed! I folded the Jockey's in half and laid it along side the multi-sized pattern. Despite my skepticism, I cut out the medium based on that comparison. But, I used an old t-shirt this time instead of fashion knit!

Kwik Sew's sewing instructions are very clear, although I flipped between the elastic description and the sewing steps. 

At this point, you tuck crotch piece #2 under panty back while crunching panty pieces together until the crotch piece comes up over the top of panty front. Then add the edge of crotch piece #2 to the pinned area.

I placed a blue dot on crotch piece #2 at this point because I wanted to figure out whether it became the outer crotch or the crotch liner. 

completed crotch 

The blue dot shows that crotch piece #2 is the crotch liner.

This is important to know when sewing panties with a fashion knit but cotton crotch.

The finished muslin ended up being too big in front.

panty front

I wasn't very surprised because I have to adjust the front waist of pants patterns. Using my fashion curve ruler, I easily decreased the center front by about 1 inch, tapering to nothing on the side. 

The nice thing about this first pair is that I can wear them! And what a pleasant surprise it was to learn a new use for old t-shirts. Very comfy!

As soon as I adjusted the panty front pattern piece, I gambled and cut out a second pair from a fashion knit (90% poly 10% spandex). These went together quickly and were finished in about 90 minutes. The fit is right on, so I now have a TNT (tried and true) hi-cut panty pattern. Yay for me!

Seriously, if you've ever flirted with the idea of making your own panties, give it a try. The comfort of having just the right amount of elasticity in the waist is reason enough to swear off RTW panties forever!

The Cutest Diaper Bag...EVER!

Lola Bea Diaper Bag from Sew Much Ado

The instructions for this bag are excellent with one exception. In the step-by-step photos/instructions, the designer refers to the pieces by name (for example, side gusset) instead of piece number. My solution (for future reference) was to write the piece numbers on each of the instruction photos. If you make this gorgeous bag, do yourself a favor and write those numbers in BEFORE you begin sewing. I didn't photograph every phase of construction, but do want to share a few pics so you can see how cute the fabric choices turned out. My daughter Meg gets all the credit for this!

Isn't this the cutest fabric combo?
Cotton duck (chevron) and cotton print, both from Hobby Lobby

strap is long enough for cross-body
(check the length before cutting if you are taller than 5'3")

Tons of room inside with 5 elastic pockets and 1 zippered pocket

I guess you can tell that I am a VERY proud grandma!

The Happy Pants Parade?

I just read a post on PR by a fellow sewist who finally mastered a pants fitting. Another member noted that she too was on her way to join the happy pants parade. 


Well! I hope there's room for me because, come hell or high water, I'm going to end up with a pants pattern that fits. More on this later...

The Old Crotch-depth Blues

I consider it progress that I no longer wince when saying/writing "crotch depth." Taking a break from the quest for a perfectly fitted shirt, I decided to whip up a 1-hour pattern for drawstring capri pants. Found a nice chocolate brown stretch poplin on sale for this project. 

This is a Simplicity pattern, one I've never used before. I chose this style because I have several pair of RTW like it and they are comfortable. Little about my shape has changed since I last made pants about a year ago. So, imagine my surprise when I slipped into the tissue-fit right leg and found the center back waist a good 4 inches from my own waist!

I was perplexed, to say the least. After researching pants modifications online and in my different books, I decided to blaze a new trail. The biggest gap I could find in the research was about 1 inch, so the suggested pattern tweaks didn't seem like they would get the job done.

Here is what the back pattern piece looked like when I finished:

I know it's crazy, but if you look closely, you can see the grainline goes off to the right just above the massive tuck/wedge thingy. Believe it or not, the stitched up pants actually fit! I posted this picture along with requests for comments on the Pattern Review board. Several kind folks referred me to an adjustment that does a slash/spread about where I added the 3". May have to try that one since it would keep the side seam straight. 

So in the next few days, I'll be putting together a muslin of this Silhouettes pattern. With any luck, I'll perfect the remedy for the old crotch-depth blues!

Getting that Embroidery Mojo

After slaving over the muslin and finished garment of the princess seamed shirt, I was delighted to see a 40% off coupon code in my email for Embroidery Library. Here are my latest treasures:

In-the-hoop pin cushion

The wrist cushion I'm using now was tweaked from a purchased one whose plastic wristband was too tight. I simply attached the cushion to a 1-inch piece of elastic and closed the ends. Problem: the pins go straight through the cushion into my wrist! I look like I did back in the cat owning days! Sooooo, I'm going to make this one and attach it to a plastic disk. I'm thinking of using the lid to one of the small Glad/Rubbermaid containers.

In-the-hoop Small Scissors Case

Just couldn't resist!

In-the-hoop Coffee Sleeve

Yes, I'm on an in-the-hoop mission! Been wanting to make one of these but waited until I had the large hoop (6x12). Fun!

6x8.5 inch design

I'm thinking aprons, here. 

Just a few of my latest purchases. I'll add more later. 

Selected, ordered, downloaded...with a chihuahua on my lap!

The Joys and Sorrows of Fitting a Muslin

I just posted on PR about the inordinate amount of time it's taking me to fit the muslin for this classic blouse. As I said there, today is the second day I've devoted to this project. With so many areas to tweak (forward shoulders, full bust, no waist...and the list goes on), it makes me tired just getting it all out to work on. 


So, why do it?


Any woman who has spent a significant amount of money on a ready-to-wear blouse that almost fits should appreciate the fitting endeavor. The idea, of course, is to painstakingly make and remake this muslin until the final pattern draft can be used many times over. This  "new" pattern becomes a TNT (tried and tested or tried and true). 


Oh, and, heaven forbid, don't lose/gain any weight! The prospect of having to start anew is motivation enough to count those calories. :)


P.S. This kind of project takes twice as much time when you have a chihuahua on your lap.